Few days earlier: Last-minute Preparations
Cebu Pacific Airline once again promoted a one peso seat
sale, including international flights. That was February 2012 when I booked my
flights to Beijing-Shanghai with dates in August 2012 and Busan-Seoul in
November 2012. Countries like the Republic of China and Republic of Korea
require Filipinos an entry visa. When July came, I processed my Chinese visa
which due to very stringent cash requirement, I was denied entry. I admit it
has somehow discouraged me to file of Korean visa until last week of October
arrived. My prepaid plane ticket Manila-Busan-Manila was dated 31 October to 4
November 2012. My professional activities were then hectic and a chance to
visit the Korean Embassy in Mckinley Hill, Taguig City can hardly squeeze in. I
personally appeared and applied for a tourist visa on 22 October and
fortunately passed the initial screening and given claim slip dated 29 October.
I was hoping to get the approved entry visa but at the same time worried I
might again be denied. When my number was called, I was so ecstatic and
actually trembling to check the approved visa pasted on my passport. I have a
day and a half to prepare for the trip, from purchase of dollar bills (just
USD500), hotel or motel (or even guesthouses) reservations, to packing of
winter clothes (and I only got two jackets).
I googled on any documented or blogged budget trips to
Korea, Busan and Seoul cities in particular. I stumbled on a very specific blog
that mentioned about a Blue Backpackers’ Hostel in Busan and Open Guesthouse in
Seoul. I emailed both sites on the night of 30 October and reserved a single
room. The Busan’s accommodation responded positively while the Seoul’s declared
to be fullybooked. At least I have somewhere to stay that night that I arrived
in South Korea.
31 October: Where is Busan?
Leaving the office around lunchtime (Yes, I still attended
officeworks that morning), I commuted via FX-taxi, MRT train, airport shuttle
bus on my way to the NAIA Terminal 3. I proceeded to the Tourism desk and paid
first the travel tax then changed into sweatshirt plus a t-shirt on top and
then the jacket before checking in. When I approached the Immigration desk, the
Officer asked me two questions, 1) Where is Busan? and 2) Is there snow in
South Korea now? All I know is that Busan is located in the southernmost part
of the country and that it was fall by then, so I cannot say there is snow as
per my research. I was at the boarding gate two hours earlier, eating Seattle’s
Best sandwich and coffee. I was reading the final chapters of the book entitled
Of God and Men until 3:40pm when boarding was called.
With too much excitement, I read and re-read my printed
documentation of the anticipated tour in Busan. I checked carefully the map and
the instructions leading to the hostel I was booked that night. There were
three ways to get there, one was to take the taxi but I found it to be
expensive (as most taxis in any country are), two was to take the bus but I
feared I might get lost (as I always do in the countries I visited so far), and
three was to ride the train but I cannot be sure if it will still be operating
by the time I arrived the city (‘cause I failed to google the operating hours
of the city’s train network). Such thought occupied most of my time the whole
flight time.
The flight was estimated to last for three and a half hours.
Having finished reading the book and cannot find sleep, I busied my staring
outside. I witnessed the transition from the setting of the sun to the rising
of the moon. Flying above the clouds, I have seen how the full moon peeked
through the clouds. I tried for several times to capture the event in my camera
but the lights backfired through the window and distorted the shots. I settled
at marveling the sight until the moon rose at an eye level and stared at it
face to face. The moon-watching was so tranquil with snores from my sleeping
neighbors as the background music. I envied them really until they were woken
up by the on-board “show me” game the Cebupac crew conducted. 
Such flight time lasted long enough and landed at 9:38pm in
Korean time, an hour time ahead of Manila time. After clearance at the
Immigration at Gimhae International Airport, I changed my 300 US dollars into
314,000 won. Feeling the cold environment now, I hurried to the bus alley where
there was no bus waiting. So I opted to take the light rail transit, than
freeze at the waiting line, which station was a little walk across the airport
building. My ignorance set in; I definitely needed help. A kind young man who
speaks few English words extended a hand. He asked me where to go and pointed
me the interconnected subway train networks of the city to reach Seomyeon
Station, my stop. His gestures told me that I have to ride the subway train and
transfer to a subway train at Sasang Station. The ticket vending machine I
operated with this guy’s help vomited a round chip. I grabbed it and entered
the automated gate which alarmed and locked at my approached. Gosh, I was so
idiot. The watcher gestured me to tap the coin on the electronic slot. And so I
did. Fortunately, he alone noticed my idiocy. And I guffawed.
While waiting for the train, two Filipinas greeted me in
Tagalog. A mother-daughter tandem whose names I cannot remember, they were also
first timers in Busan as well. At Sasang Station, I left them to look for
smaller bills to I went to the nearest 7-11 convenience store in the subway
station. A saleslady gestured a box with her hands and pointed me somewhere.
This I found very difficult to comprehend and I have walked in circles to
identify the instructions. To my surprise, the saleslady tailed me and guided
me to the box that changes large bills (10,000 and 5,000) to 1,000 won
denominations. Wow, another vending machine! 
I reunited with the ladies after at the track. I finally got
company up until we parted in Seomyeon Station where I disembarked ahead of
them. I was alone again in reading and following directions, printed on a piece
of scratch paper. I thought I followed correctly the specified tunnel and the
right and left turns, but I ended up at the middle of a residential area. It
turned out I entered the wrong tunnel; there were number of tunnels in the
area. I asked anybody I encountered there; the ladies declined, hinting that
they cannot speak English. I found this old gentleman who smelled of liquors
who‘s God-given and provided me the right direction in little but good English,
after careful analysis of the map I showed him.
I finally spotted the Blue Backpacker’s Hostel small but
illuminated signage. I entered the reception area and greeted by the attendant
I called “Yang”. After checking in at almost 11pm, I went out to look for a
meal. There’s nothing western food in the Seomyeon area, so I occupied a seat
in one Korean eatery and ordered a rice meal. They did not understand my
English so I pointed on one food picture which I did not know what was it
called, obviously. The lady cook faced me with an inquiring look then gestured
fanning her two hands at her face. I understood it to mean that it was hot and
spicy, and whether I like it hot. I said no, “a little please” responding a
gesture with my right hand, the thumb and point finger forming a pinch. Despite
the anonymity of the recipe and the accompanying condiments, I devoured whole
meal. Then I stopped by the nearby grocery store and bought an Oreo cookies and
two bottled water. I hurried back to the hostel to rid of the cold outside.
As I prepared for bed unpacking my personal stuffs, I
noticed that I missed to bring sleeping garbs. When my laptop computer
hibernated after leaving it on when I find meal, I realized that they have this
unique adaptor with round teeth and round socket. I need to rent one but the
counter has closed already that midnight. So I need rather retire for the
night, anyway I already in Busan. I can now point to the Filipino Immigration
Officer where Busan is.
1 November: K-race-zy Day
Woken by my full bladder, I rose from the bed at little past
6am, went to the toilet trying hard to open my spicy eyes. I returned to bed
hoping to go back to sleep, but I can no longer find peace to settle down. Lots
of thoughts occupied my mind and kept me awake since. So I went to the common
room which was empty yet and used one of the three computers to update my web
status, my facebook account particularly. I cleansed myself that very early,
both bowel and shower. It was a crazy cold morning, I experienced brainfreeze
and body trembling, and so I need to grab a breakfast to survive the cold.
I realized that Koreans really deserved a yellow complexion
and pinkish cheeks due to their climate. Korean beauty especially of men is so
attractive: the fair skin, the prominent and good-chiseled jaw lines, the
unkempt almost-cosplay hair, the average height of 5’7. I have proven the
authenticity of those seen by Filipinos in Koreanovelas, printads such as
Bench’s Korean models, and MTVs of K-pop groups.
Ready for the breakfast, I climbed the third floor to dine.
I initially thought a plated set meal but to my astonishment there is none. I
noticed all the men there (there was no women guest, I believe) busy preparing
toasts, wiping marmalades, boiling water, preparing coffee, pouring juice. So I
said, okay… this is how to do breakfast here. I joined the group even in the
discussions. I particularly enjoyed an early morning talk with the middle-aged
German and American; some are Indians but they left early. This is the beauty
of traveling in foreign countries, you got to meet and talk with fellow
travelers and converse like friends, even if you don’t know each other’s first
names. The American was from Seattle who arrived through a cargo vessel. He
told me that most ship’s crew even the cook are Filipinos. The German came from
Fukuoka, Japan and have been to Busan several times but declared he has not yet
ventured all about Busan. In his place, he said, has this Filipino restaurant
named Adobo. Both foreigners wondered on the fondness of Filipinos for karaoke
singing.
I noticed we talked for quite a while, so I excused myself
and went down ahead of them. I still need to check out because I planned to
travel by sleeper bus tonight to Seoul. I talked to Yang regarding depositing
my luggage while I went on tour and promised to pick it up at 5pm. I already
have final tour plan of the day so I used to subway to reach Busan Station
where all city tour buses queued. Their subway system however is expensive; it
cost 4,000 won, equivalent to 4 USD, per ride even the shortest distance. When I
got to the parked buses, I asked the waiting operator about the night view
tour, he told me it requires prior reservation bringing his right hand to his
right ear forming a phone. Apparently I don’t have time for that and I was
already there to take the day tours, so he directed me to a building towering
over us; to room 401 and book my seat, he said. 
I boarded the Haeundae tour bus and paid 10,000 won, and that
amount gave me opportunity to take the Taejongdae route once I completed the
Haeundae route. This is a hop-on-hop-off tour package that you can avail any
time of the day in any stop or pick up point until 7pm. I chose only interesting
stops such as Nurimaru, the venue of the 2005 APEC Summit with several
attractions around including the crying mermaid, the BEXCO where signature
apparels are sold at Shinsegate Department Store, local films are shown at the
Busan Film Center, and my favorite among UN Memorial Cemetery. I felt genuinely
proud to see acknowledgement of Philippine contribution to Korean War. I have
seen Filipino soldiers from among those honored. I even photographed myself
with the Philippine flag.
The Taejongdae leg followed immediately after I completed
the Haeundae Tour, so I skipped lunch. I served myself with the Oreo cookies. I
forewent all points except for one at Taejongdae where lighthouse, observatory,
viewdecks for the Busan busy port. I climbed my way 2km up to these touristy
points and rode the tram on my way down. I kept my hands in my pocket to keep
warm. I experienced exposure to colder
breeze that afternoon when I took the roofless bus. I dropped off at Jagalchi
Station and caught the subway train to go back to the hostel to pick my
luggage. I promised Yang to come back at 5pm and it was half hour past 5pm. And
I raced back to Busan Station tugging along my wheeled luggage to get ready for
the night view tour. I planned to reach the station early in order to grab a
little dinner before the tour and thankfully when I entered the train station I
noticed a coin locker which means pay locker. I simply followed the English-translated
instructions and secured my luggage in one if the 1500 won-worth locker,
settled in one corner and ate a Lotteria burger sandwich, with potato fries and
a soda.
The night view tour cost me a separate 10,000 won. It was
worth the roam around the city at night. There were 2 designated stops, each
for 10 minutes to take pictures of the view, one was in Gwangali Beach where
beautifully lit Gwangan Bridge is the backdrop, and the other was at the Mt.
Geumyeonsan overlooking the whole colorful city. All of us who took that night’s
tour were ushered to an observatory at the mount; we peeked at the hi-powered
scientific telescope the full moon. After my turn, I ran back to the bus to defreeze.
It was such a crazy cold night! I slept on the bus from time to time signaling that
my body was tired of the whole day tours.
After unlocking the coin locker and claiming back my
luggage, I bought a train ticket to Seoul and booked one seat of the last train
leaving Busan every day at 11:10pm with an estimated time of arrival in Seoul
at around 5am. I was hoping against hope that I can get sound sleep on train
but I always was startled at every stop, the announcements, the warming, the
whistle. And that I don’t usually sleep while traveling; that’s my weakness. Maybe
I am just on guard every time. Maybe I am curious to know where I am, what this
new place look for me, what is unique in here. Maybe I am taking the experience
of train ride worthwhile and to nap will deprived me of that.
2 November: Roaming Seoul
Arrived at Seoul City
at 4:34am exactly, I took big breakfast at the nearby McDo. I initially planned
to find my way to the city proper to find a room, noting that I did not reserve
any for the night, but I attracted by the signage for the airport train. I remembered
being impressed by the megastructures’ episode (I cannot exactly point National
Geographic or Discovery channel) about the bridge-flyover-railway all-in-one
connecting Seoul to the Incheon Island where the airport is located. I made
quick rounds of the airport and rode back to the city proper. 
I stopped at an interchange so confused; either to go on
tour right away or find a place first around there. If I will go on tour, I will
be tugging along with me my trolley bag. Should I find a place to stay around
the area, I have no idea where, I may end up wasting time walking around. So I brought
out the brochure I pocketed from the Blue Backpackers Hostel in Busan. It was
called Inside Backpackers and the accompanying map points to Hyewa Subway
Station which no matter how I searched from the map, I really can’t find. Fortunately
a man entered the previously unoccupied information booth and despite his
inability to utter English words, he gave me a map, unfolded it in front of me
and encircled the Hyewa station. I said “got it” and thanked him. I was
fortunate enough to spot the inn quickly despite the busy streets packed with vibrant
and smorgasbord stalls from left to right since I surfaced from the subway
station, much so that it was located near a university.
The room I occupied was complete with amenities, from ref to
cooking equipment to desktop computers with unlimited Wi-Fi access. Again I was
not able to nap as I was preoccupied with updating the internet, checking
emails, responding to mails and comments, most especially the photo editing for
those best shots that necessitate immediate uploading through facebook. I bathed
and cleaned myself and then headed back to the Gwangwamun station to catch the
evening’s event, which I initially forgot what was it called and Min has
mentioned. When I exited from the subway at the Channel A section, I noticed
crowds of people queuing. I went with them and queued hoping that it will lead
me to star-sighting, the Korean actors and actresses, maybe Rain or Psy. Later I
found out that the seemingly endless queue led to the exhibits of intricately
made lanterns. It was indeed Seoul’s Lantern Festival! All the larger than
life, adequately illuminated lanterns were lined up in what seemed to me a
draining canal in the middle of the city. That “canal” has fountain at its head
section then the clean water stream though the long stretched system. I cannot
tell how long it was because I did not bother to reach its other side. Differently
themed as they are, the lanterns reflected Korean figures, Buddhist icons,
their heritage, lifestyles, customs and traditions, even zodiac signs. There were
entries from abroad, Philippines as one of them. It was a clear indication that
Republics of the Philippines and Korea have good relationship. A big section
was occupied by the blinking lanterns made of capiz shells from Pampanga,
Philippines. A signage bearing the tag line “It’s more fun in the Philippines” can
be seen at its feet. At the UN section, a lantern depicting a Filipino in
traditional costume stood over an illuminated flag.
As the night peaked, the temperature also dropped low. When I
reached the superhero lanterns, I felt my digitalis numbing, my legs and back
aching, my hands freezing and my nose bleeding and that it was time to hide in
my room. I ordered to go an unknown recipe on and from Red Cups and emptied it
before climbing to bed. With that, I felt I roamed around the Seoul.
3 November: Souvenir Hunting
I woke up late today as I intended it to be in order to
recover the prior night’s sleepless journey. It was 10am when I finished
packing and making up, including updating of status at my facebook page.
After checking out, I headed directly to Seoul Station hoping
I could find some souvenir shops around there. Min, the innkeeper, doesn’t have
any idea where exactly to find souvenirs per se; all he knew are shopping
centers for Korean products, maybe Dongdaemon, he added. True enough, the
information ladyclerk in the train station also did not provide me exact
information or address of the souvenir shops or maybe they don’t know exactly
what souvenirs are. She mentioned this Hadjik area but I was short of time to
go there, venture this unknown place unsure of finding really souvenir shops. So
I instead made rounds of the area surrounding the station to check if there is
any souvenir shop. I ended up at a museum checking its exhibits of home ideas. 
I decided then to rather look for these souvenir shops in
Busan city. So I climbed the food court floor to take my lunch. I approached
one stall with aproned ladies who prepared food servings and ordered, but she
pointed me to the counter at the center of the court. I took it to mean that I have
to order and pay there and come back for the food servings. It made me look
stupid, walking back and forth the whole food court floor. Then later I realized
that I cannot simply take my ordered food from the stalls but wait for my order
number to be called, and I have to check it from the monitor. Wow,
super-advanced!
I book the 1pm trip Busan via the express train, KTX, which
trip to my destination would only last for 2 and a half hours – the usual train
trip almost cut in half. My assigned car was 18, assigned seat was 14B. When
the call to board was flashing on the screen followed by the announcement, I was
ecstatic to know that car 18 was the nearest to the pilot’s car. It was worth
the price because the ambiance, the seat, the cabin as whole felt luxurious and
super-comfy, with Wi-Fi access. I was elated to notice that I will be sitting
beside this young and cute Korean guy, in military uniform. That was my close
encounter with a Korean kind! 
My attention turned back to souvenir hunting. The KTX train
is expected to arrive at Busan Station at half past 3pm, and that would give me
enough time to search for souvenir shops. I immediately approached the tourist
information center and the guys representing Paradise Hotel entertained me,
grabbed and unfolded a city map and encircle the BIFF Square at Jagalchi subway
station. This subway station has multiple shops around selling RTW apparels and
accessories, but not the souvenir type in my mind. I was expecting to find
items like key chain, ref magnets, t-shirts and whatnot that has Busan or Seoul
or South Korea printed and/or engraved on it. But there was none, as most
salesladies or salesmen I asked! All available items are winter clothes, fluffy
boots, stuffy jackets, colorful socks and scarves, flamboyant et cetera. I bought
anything Korean produced without the obvious print of the places I visited. This
can serve as souvenirs, I forced myself to believe.
I reached Gimhae International Airport at 6:40pm. I checked
in immediately before taking my dinner of fried chicken and fries at Popeye’s. Passing
the immigration, I now waited for my Cebu Pacific flight back to Manila.
Impressions
Despite the lack of usual souvenir types, I can say that I really had a great time in South Korea. I highly recommend Busan city tour bus for day and night views, as they were more enjoyable and the route covers the whole of the city at a minimum price. Seoul’s city tour routes are more concentrated on the downtown, there were other routes but for a separate fee, that would make your tour very expensive. This downtown-concentrated tour can be done personally. I regret I did not go for DMZ (demilitarized zone) day tour, I believe this is more interesting. I may go back to Seoul for this purpose. Despite the inability of the people to converse using English language, but all signages, instructions, directions have English translation (no matter how awkward they seem for some translations). All city tours are so organized; all tourist destinations are accessible by all transport, which make your personal tour very manageable. Most recurring transactions that are related to peddling are made through automated vending machines, from bottled or packed products to transport tickets to changing money bills.
All in all, I have had a great taste of South Korea!
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