My backpacking tour in Sri Lanka was supposed to kick start in April 2020, but was overtaken by an official business trip to Colombo in Sri Lanka in February.
There was quite an interrogation at the immigration counter. The officer asked my purpose of visit, have I been to Korea or Male, hinted about possibly working in Sri Lanka. So after his stamp of my entry visa, I scurried past him and looked for the exit.
This was my second time here in Colombo airport but I struggled finding the exit door. I asked airport personnel twice before I saw the exit sign. I plan to learn the bus system from airport to the city but opted to take the taxi because of the heavy rains. I approached the kiosk outside the arrival area and ordered a taxi to Colombo. The quoted rate was LKR2,800 which is usual rate but I added LKR300 when the driver suggested taking the expressway. Took this as my chance to get change for ky LKR5,000 bill. The driver was kind enough to contact my hotel to get the exact location.
I found C1 Fort Colombo Hotel at the city center. I passed by this direction the first time I was in the city. So I felt safe. I was given the lower bunk in a room of 8. I like the place, the bed primarily, even the common toilet and bathroom. Now I thought of cancelling my other hotel reservation on my return and stay here because it’s comfortable and way cheaper.
I shared the room with a fellow Filipino who just concluded his weeklong trip around Sri Lanka. He hinted me of Polonnaruwa Ruins as better than Anuradhapura. So I inserted Polonnaruwa in my Dambullah-Sigiriya tour.
Since Korean Air served heavy snack on board, so I retired that night full. But of course I did my research first about my subsequent days’ commute and directions before hitting the sack.
Expenses: LKR5,600 (Taxi-2,800 + Toll Fee-300 + Hotel 1N-2,500)
It was crazy here. Even if you have 2nd class ticket, you have to elbow your way in to find a seat in an express train. From Colombo, the coaches were jampacked that everyone was standing in the aisles, elderlies and kids alike, locals and foreigners. Some locals would volunteer to reserve you a seat for a tip. I was fortunate to follow an elderly local who jumped on to the train as it was slowly approaching to the parking bay. We’re the firsts to get a front seat. But then he gestured to a young mother carrying a child to sit between us. So yeah, it was a hot and crowded ride.
Another 2 hours had past and we reached Hatton Station. I braved the heavy rain to hop on the next bus to Delhousie. My first itinerary is to climb the Adam’s Peak and Delhousie is the jumpoff point, and Hatton is the nearest train station. I found myself a sit by the window. When rain dissipated a bit, everyone jumped on board and the bus was cramped with people, where half of us were standing.
I wished it was clear sky that day when we climbed and jigjagged our way to Delhousie. I read that it has a beautiful green landscape here. I napped a bit and found that the bus was approaching the terminal (it was just a dropoff I think) which was 3-km away from my room accommodation, which I passed already, when I consulted the Google map. So I decided to grab dinner first before going back. Then I hired a tuktuk to take me back to Rashmira Homestay. The driver quoted LKR400 and I haggled for LKR200, but we settled at LKR300.
I was ushered in by an old lady. I later learned that there were 4 of us billeted that night: a young lady from Holland (named Nina) and a Spanish couple, Neria and Quan, from San Sebastian in Spain. We bonded that night and agreed to climbed together. We clicked right away, agreed on a wake up call, hire car to take us to the jumpoff, and even what to wear to counter the morning cold.
Expenses: LKR1,410 (Train Ticket-260 + Snacks-100 + Bus Fare-0 + Dinner-750 + Tuktuk-300)
This week was holiday for Sri Lankans. As expected, hoards of pilgrims came to climb the sacred mountain for Buddhists. This was a challenging climb which most blogs described as 4- to 5-hour ascent. Most climbers were locals, bracing with extended families and friends, carrying their little babies, towing their kids and elderlies. I guessed that because the trail is paved and the steps are concrete all the way up that people of all ages find it favorable to climb.
Upon reaching the 2,000 masl mark, the climbing crowd stuck and immovable for 30 minutes already. I was in the middle of the crowd along with other foreign tourists. Feeling that crowd of locals won’t budge, we seemed to understand each other and together retreated, found a way to head down. We heard from other English-speaking tourist who went up ahead of us commenting that it was impossible to reach the peak where steps are narrower while plenty of people are still up there.
I decided to walk all the way back to the house. I got plenty of good sights, from waterfalls to lakes and mazes within tea plantations. When I reached my room, I noticed that Neria and Quan did not push for the peak and headed back ahead of me. In the end, only Nina successfully reached the peak. She told us during breakfast time of the other route she took with the company of other foreigners. They reached the other side of the mountain though, not the one facing the sunrise, where most people preferred.
After one nice and long conversation about life and travels, we agreed to travel together to Kandy, hire a van and split the fare equally. The landscape along the way was impressive. But it was raining when we reached Kandy City. We went on separate ways from here. We dropped Nina first and then myself at a corner close to the bus station. The roads were flooding so I opted to grab a meal first before looking for the Dambulla-bound buses. I headed to the nearest KFC. It was the best meal of my day because they served 2-pc chicken with rice-the Sri Lankan way. The rain stopped as soon as I finished my meal.
Back to the bus station, I asked several men to point me to the buses going to Dambulla. I found them parked close to the Post Office. I changed my mind of taking regular bus when I spotted an AC Coaster marked Dambulla. I jumped in and settled at the front seat. The 2-hour ride was worth the LKR400. The driver dropped me so close to the lodging house I booked that night. The bus stop was actually right in front of the Dambulla Golden Temple. Without difficulty, I located the Lark Lodge few steps away.
Expenses: LKR6,410 (Homestay with Car-3,280 + Car to Kandy-2,000 + Dinner at KFC-730 + Bus to Dambulla-400)
April 19AM - DIY in Sigiriya
I immediately felt home in this family-run lodging house, named Lark Lodge. Last night, they offered me hot milk tea, both milk and tea they made themselves, they claimed. They served it along with local sweet delicacies. I actually earned a goodnight sleep in a fan room with small and single twin beds.
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| From the Golden Temple in Dambulla, with Sigiriya Fortress in the horizon |
April 16 - Second visit to Sri Lanka
Today was the first day of the New Year for Sri Lankan. It was yet 5pm when the Korean Air I flew from Maldives landed on Sri Lankan wet soil. The hard rain caused the turbulence upon our descent.There was quite an interrogation at the immigration counter. The officer asked my purpose of visit, have I been to Korea or Male, hinted about possibly working in Sri Lanka. So after his stamp of my entry visa, I scurried past him and looked for the exit.
This was my second time here in Colombo airport but I struggled finding the exit door. I asked airport personnel twice before I saw the exit sign. I plan to learn the bus system from airport to the city but opted to take the taxi because of the heavy rains. I approached the kiosk outside the arrival area and ordered a taxi to Colombo. The quoted rate was LKR2,800 which is usual rate but I added LKR300 when the driver suggested taking the expressway. Took this as my chance to get change for ky LKR5,000 bill. The driver was kind enough to contact my hotel to get the exact location.
I found C1 Fort Colombo Hotel at the city center. I passed by this direction the first time I was in the city. So I felt safe. I was given the lower bunk in a room of 8. I like the place, the bed primarily, even the common toilet and bathroom. Now I thought of cancelling my other hotel reservation on my return and stay here because it’s comfortable and way cheaper.
I shared the room with a fellow Filipino who just concluded his weeklong trip around Sri Lanka. He hinted me of Polonnaruwa Ruins as better than Anuradhapura. So I inserted Polonnaruwa in my Dambullah-Sigiriya tour.
Since Korean Air served heavy snack on board, so I retired that night full. But of course I did my research first about my subsequent days’ commute and directions before hitting the sack.
Expenses: LKR5,600 (Taxi-2,800 + Toll Fee-300 + Hotel 1N-2,500)
April 17 - Reaching Heights
This was a very long day of travel... merely because I took the long way, I realized. The express train at 830am from Colombo to Hatton was not really an express trip. I noticed through Google’s offline map that I veered away from Hatton as compared to the hired car or bus or van’s route. After 3 hours, the train stopped at Kandy. I failed to note this; had I known about this, I should have inserted a day in Kandy City... or skipped Colombo and spent overnight in Kandy.
It was crazy here. Even if you have 2nd class ticket, you have to elbow your way in to find a seat in an express train. From Colombo, the coaches were jampacked that everyone was standing in the aisles, elderlies and kids alike, locals and foreigners. Some locals would volunteer to reserve you a seat for a tip. I was fortunate to follow an elderly local who jumped on to the train as it was slowly approaching to the parking bay. We’re the firsts to get a front seat. But then he gestured to a young mother carrying a child to sit between us. So yeah, it was a hot and crowded ride.
Another 2 hours had past and we reached Hatton Station. I braved the heavy rain to hop on the next bus to Delhousie. My first itinerary is to climb the Adam’s Peak and Delhousie is the jumpoff point, and Hatton is the nearest train station. I found myself a sit by the window. When rain dissipated a bit, everyone jumped on board and the bus was cramped with people, where half of us were standing.
I wished it was clear sky that day when we climbed and jigjagged our way to Delhousie. I read that it has a beautiful green landscape here. I napped a bit and found that the bus was approaching the terminal (it was just a dropoff I think) which was 3-km away from my room accommodation, which I passed already, when I consulted the Google map. So I decided to grab dinner first before going back. Then I hired a tuktuk to take me back to Rashmira Homestay. The driver quoted LKR400 and I haggled for LKR200, but we settled at LKR300.
I was ushered in by an old lady. I later learned that there were 4 of us billeted that night: a young lady from Holland (named Nina) and a Spanish couple, Neria and Quan, from San Sebastian in Spain. We bonded that night and agreed to climbed together. We clicked right away, agreed on a wake up call, hire car to take us to the jumpoff, and even what to wear to counter the morning cold.
Expenses: LKR1,410 (Train Ticket-260 + Snacks-100 + Bus Fare-0 + Dinner-750 + Tuktuk-300)
April 18 - Adam's Peak with new Friends
We were up and ready by 2am. As arranged, the son of our hostess drove us to the foot of the Adam’s Peak. |
| The Adam's Peak |
This week was holiday for Sri Lankans. As expected, hoards of pilgrims came to climb the sacred mountain for Buddhists. This was a challenging climb which most blogs described as 4- to 5-hour ascent. Most climbers were locals, bracing with extended families and friends, carrying their little babies, towing their kids and elderlies. I guessed that because the trail is paved and the steps are concrete all the way up that people of all ages find it favorable to climb.
Upon reaching the 2,000 masl mark, the climbing crowd stuck and immovable for 30 minutes already. I was in the middle of the crowd along with other foreign tourists. Feeling that crowd of locals won’t budge, we seemed to understand each other and together retreated, found a way to head down. We heard from other English-speaking tourist who went up ahead of us commenting that it was impossible to reach the peak where steps are narrower while plenty of people are still up there.
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| Hoards of pilgrims |
I decided to walk all the way back to the house. I got plenty of good sights, from waterfalls to lakes and mazes within tea plantations. When I reached my room, I noticed that Neria and Quan did not push for the peak and headed back ahead of me. In the end, only Nina successfully reached the peak. She told us during breakfast time of the other route she took with the company of other foreigners. They reached the other side of the mountain though, not the one facing the sunrise, where most people preferred.
 |
| Waterfall along the highway |
After one nice and long conversation about life and travels, we agreed to travel together to Kandy, hire a van and split the fare equally. The landscape along the way was impressive. But it was raining when we reached Kandy City. We went on separate ways from here. We dropped Nina first and then myself at a corner close to the bus station. The roads were flooding so I opted to grab a meal first before looking for the Dambulla-bound buses. I headed to the nearest KFC. It was the best meal of my day because they served 2-pc chicken with rice-the Sri Lankan way. The rain stopped as soon as I finished my meal.
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| A Christian church surrounded by tea plantation |
Back to the bus station, I asked several men to point me to the buses going to Dambulla. I found them parked close to the Post Office. I changed my mind of taking regular bus when I spotted an AC Coaster marked Dambulla. I jumped in and settled at the front seat. The 2-hour ride was worth the LKR400. The driver dropped me so close to the lodging house I booked that night. The bus stop was actually right in front of the Dambulla Golden Temple. Without difficulty, I located the Lark Lodge few steps away.
Expenses: LKR6,410 (Homestay with Car-3,280 + Car to Kandy-2,000 + Dinner at KFC-730 + Bus to Dambulla-400)
April 19AM - DIY in Sigiriya
I immediately felt home in this family-run lodging house, named Lark Lodge. Last night, they offered me hot milk tea, both milk and tea they made themselves, they claimed. They served it along with local sweet delicacies. I actually earned a goodnight sleep in a fan room with small and single twin beds.
Today, I am ready for another full-day adventure: Sigiriya Rock in the morning and Polonnaruwa Ancient Ruins in the afternoon.
There were several tourists already, locals mostly, when I arrived at the dropoff point. Uniformed locals were offering tourguide services but I preferred to do it myself. I bought the entry ticket from the museum for US$30 and started climbing the rock right away. It was yet 9am but the humidity was biting hard, so I tried to overtake those ahead of me. Just a start of day but I was soaking in my sweat. At the starting point of the climb was a natural diamond-shaped entryway, made out of two kissing boulders. I then came out into series of stairs and steep steel ladders, sometime, wooden, dangerous-looking and precariously stuck into this humongous rock that shut up from the earth, then stayed like that for centuries. More astonishing it was when I reached the twin-winding stairs at a small fresco with ancient colorful arts and paintings that can be viewed twice, one on your way up the stairs and the the other when coming down. No cameras allowed here, so I have nothing to prove it; one should really be there to see it for real.
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| At the Mirror Wall |
Upon descent from the fresco, I find myself in the mirror wall section. I didn't see or notice anything to prove why it was called as mirror wall but I took a photo and pushed forward until I reached the first landing, a small plateau. This was where the main entryway to the ancient palace above the rock, guarded by a carved stone in the form of a giant lion. The ladders from here are all steel plates, criss-crossing all the way up. It was still early, so there were few climbers then. I was fortunate to reach the top fast.
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| Remnants of the ancient palace |
Up the Sigiriya Rock was a cascading plateau with remnants of the ancient palace and fortress. It can be viewed as a majestic complex with plenty of palace sections, including a swimming pool, a throne room, audience hall, flower gardens, servants quarter, and more. Ancient ruins are really my fascination because they enticed me to imagine ancient architectures, and wonder how on earth the ancient humans built them during crude times. These amazing structures were perched 370 masl, a palace with 1.5ha area, made of red bricks, and complete with plumbing and lighting and more fixtures.
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| On top the Sigiriya Rock |
I met Vicky Brown up there when we exchanged cameras to take better pictures of the view. She offered help when I struggled taking selfies. We talked many things about our shared wanderlusting and went down together off to the highway. I said goodbye to her as she walked her way back to their hotel. And I waited for the bus with signboard, "Polonnaruwa".
April 19PM - Biking around Polonnaruwa Ancient City
I later realized that Sigiriya's location is interior; I still have to go back to the main highway to catch local buses going to Polonnaruwa. Fortunately, I asked the driver (who can speak good English) of the bus that waited for passengers at that junction. He invited me to come on board promising he'll drop me at the main highway. True enough, at Inamaluwa Junction, he pointed me to the other side of the road to wait for the bus to Polonnaruwa.
This was what I learnt in Sri Lanka, the landmark of any town or city center is the Clock Tower. When you noticed one, that should be your dropoff point. I made my first mistake in my adventure to Polonnaruwa. I was on board a filled bus, so I stood the whole time. That's one reason I missed the Clock Tower. Second realization was to never trust at all times the Google Map's direction. I was pinned to a dropoff point reasonably far from the Clock Tower.
Indeed, I alighted at the town's General Hospital, more than a kilometer passed the Clock Tower where the Tourism Office is located. So I braved the hot midday sun and walked my way back. I was reluctant to hail any tuktuk because they all seemed full everytime they passed by me. Or they may charge me more high for a walkable distance.
You won't miss the Tourism Office; it was the only nice building adjacent to the Clock Tower. But the Ticket Issuer , their term for the receptionist or Tourism Officer, was disappointing. He has no knowledge about anything a tourist would inquire. I asked him about sitemap (none, "finished"), bike for rent (no reaction), usual rate for the tuktuk ride (no idea), how far is the ancient ruins from the office (so-so). He is not the right person for the job; and apparently, he was not happy with it.
I paid $25 for the entry ticket, which you must show to every gate inspector. As I walked my way to the site, I noticed a bike rental shop across the road. I approached and inquired, the keeper offered one good bike for LKR200, which was so cheap that I grabbed it right away. I was biking around this huge complex of the so-called Ancient Sacred City for 2 hours. From one temple to another; from the royal palace to the giant stone statues, burial sites, and more; stopping from one snack center to another for drinks of coconut juice, colas, and others.
I was back in Dambulla before sundown, after having returned the bike and caught the next passing bus at the Clock Tower.
Expenses: LKR17,680 (Tuktuk to Sigiriya-1,000 + Snacks-500 + Entry Ticket-5,190 + Bus to Polonnaruwa-135 + Entry Ticket-4,325 + Bike Rental-200 + Snacks-500 + Bus to Dambulla-100 + Dinner 540 + Room 1N-5,190)
April 20AM - Morning Walk around Dambulla
I woke up late today and slowly strolled towards the Cave Temple through the Golden Temple's gate. I was in no hurry because my tour destinations are located across the lodging house I stayed in. Upon reaching the last landing towards the cave temple, I noticed the signage directing foreign visitors to pass through the Ticketing Office which was on the other side of the hill. So I needed to go down, buy ticket, and climb back again.
It was a different path for tourists like me. I climbed a series of steps carved out of the rocky hill. I arrived at the main entrance panting. Wearing shoes or slippers is not allowed inside, so I deposited my shoes at the rack station for LKR25. As curious as I am, I entered all entryways barefooted. I found several sets of coven, each with its own exhibits of buddhas and statues of royals, murals and other old paintings.
The huge cave was impressive. It exhibited a huge collection of buddhas and statues, as well as intricate artworks of its ceiling. It's facade was so white. I observed several local faithfuls exhibiting rituals.
After that short visit, I headed back down exiting the way I entered through the Golden Temple.
April 20PM - Biking around Anuradhapura Ancient City
I paid for my 2-night accommodation and inquired from the property owner how to take the bus to Anuradhapura. I initially thought that I could just walk to the nearest highway and wait for any bus plying to Anuradhapura. But my host told me that there are 2 highways here and the buses to Anuradhapura passed the other one. And that I need to get to Dambulla's Clock Tower first to wait for them. The old man was so kind that he offered me a free ride on his tuktuk to send me off to the Clock Tower. Perfect accommodation and service from the Lark Lodge!
I paid LKR120 for the 2-hour journey to another ancient city in Sri Lanka. The bus I took parked at the so-called New Bus Station just a short distance from the Town's Clock Tower. I have no room reservation here because I canceled my prior booking when I decided to stay another night in Dambulla. So, I decided to stroll towards the railway section, observing for any signage of hotels or guesthouses. There were plenty to choose from, actually, from AC to fan rooms. I spotted one guesthouse, which looked new, and favorable price, located closer to the main road where stores, banks, and restaurants lined up.
It was noontime yet, so I have plenty of time to explore Anuradhapura. Without further ado, I went straight to the Ancient City by foot, passing the Train Station. I tried to follow the road towards the so-called "sacred city" looking for the Ticket Office and Bike Rentals. It was a long walk when I spotted a junk shop with signage for bike rental. I rented it for LKR600, got site map from the owner, and some pointers on how to navigate and where to start. I biked my way to the Ticketing Office and started biking here and there everytime I saw a Stupa, temple, or similar structure. It was a huge ground where these ancient ruins are scattered.
Unlike Polonnaruwa where walking around the area is possible, here in Anuradhapura one needs a transport; a bike at the least. The shop owner was effective and credible than a tourism officer. One, he outlined for me the route to take in order to cover the whole tourist destination; two, he warned me about the 2 spots within the area that will require additional entry fee at the rate of LKR200; three, I need to cover myself because wearing shortpants is inappropriate in entering temples and handed me a piece of cloth; and four, he reminded me of the closing times for the park and his shop will be at 5pm and 6pm, respectively.
Temples, stupas, and most structures here are not original one or curated ones, but reconstructed. The whole ancient structures are completely ruined. Most that remains are slabs, posts, stakes, brickwalls, and polvourized bricks. After biking around and seeing every ruined and reconstructed structures, I concluded that Polonnaruwa is better preserved than this. I ended my tour at half past 4pm, sunburnt and exhausted, with hurting butts. The whole area was too wide but empty.
Expenses:
LKR13,445 (Entry Ticket-1,500 + Lark Lodge (2N)-5,250 + Snacks & Drinks-550 + Bus to Anuradhapura-120 + Entry Ticket to Ruins-4,425 + Bike Rental-600 + Dinner-1,000)
April 21 - Taking the Train to Colombo
I was scheduled to depart Anuradhapura on board the local train at 11AM. So that morning I hike to the lakeside. They have this walkway, adequately paved for local joggers, runners, or strollers, lining and snaking along the riverbanks. I joined some locals did morning exercises there and enjoyed the lake.
On my way back, I dropped by a food kiosk serving buffet breakfast of local recipes at very low price. Then tried another restaurant known as "Walker" for the second breakfast.
Passengers bound for or in the direction of Colombo crowded the Train Station at 10AM. Then something horrible happened around Sri Lanka; news of series of bombing was aired around lunchtime. Most bomb explosions was reported to happen in Colombo City, in Christian Churches during the celebration of Easter Sunday and in select high-end hotels. The news was broadcasted in local language and my seatmate was so kind to translate it to me in brief English. Hundreds of innocent lives were killed, injured, and affected.
It caused long delay in our departure. I personally thought I would be staying another night here.My fellow passengers were busy calling families and friends with grim looks on their faces. Then we're cleared to depart and my whole afternoon was spent in the journey which arrived at Colombo Fort station at 6pm. It was eerie to find the supposed busy city to be completely deserted, so dead quiet, all establishments were closed; only few people including myself was seen walking on the streets. At the check in counter of the C1 Fort Colombo Hotel, I learnt that curfew was raised from 6PM to 6AM. My problem now was the dinner. I was starving since I have not eaten formal meal except for the cookies and juice I packed on the train ride. I also learnt that most hotel guests were asking for dinner which the hotel tried to facilitate. Then that night, all of us were served with kutto at little past 8PM.
Expenses: LKR7,120 (Room in Anuradhapura (1N)-3,500 + Breakfast-390 + Train to Colombo-380 + Snacks & Drinks-150 + Hotel in Colombo-2,400 + Dinner-300)
April 22 - Tense Flight Home
After massive bombing yesterday, security in the country, especially in Colombo City was tight. I was afraid my flight will be canceled. I needed to get home asap. Since last night, all social media were shutdown. I used my roaming to keep my family updated and assured them not to worry because I was safe. But many of my friends who knew that I was in Sri Lanka traveling were posting messages in my Facebook and Messenger accounts.That morning, I intended to buy Dilmah Teas from Hilton Hotel, souvenirs from the Old Dutch Hospital Building, and food from the nearest KFC. But all these establishments remained closed that day, for security reasons most definitely. So I shopped them through the local shop and grocery store that dared open.
Then I decided to get to the airport as early as possible, although my flight was scheduled at break of dawn of April 23. For security reasons, I was torn between taking the local bus or the Uber to go to the airport. I tried first the Uber but it declined my card payment. So, I braved taking the local bus where station is a short walk from my hotel. But I hired a tuktuk to take me there and point me the right bus to the airport. It was a small coaster bus, air-conditioned, and cost me only LKR200 versus the LKR2,000 Uber-charge.
True enough, the security control in the airport was tight. It was known that authorities found an explosive in the airport last night but was successfully detonated. There was a long queue of cars heading towards the airport entrance. The public bus dropped us at the nearest corner to the airport and walked my way inside. My passport was checked thrice before I reached the x-ray machine.
Just like me, many tourists preferred to stay in the airport to wait, no matter how long was their scheduled flight. I spent all my remaining local money to enjoy my long wait.
Expenses: LKR10,930 (Dilmah tea-3,660 + Souvenirs-4,990 + Lunch-560 + Tuktuk-220 + Bus to Airport-200 + Dinner-1,300)
All in all, I spent more or less 17,000 in Philippine peso for this trip.
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